It seems like ring finger paddle buttons are becoming a controller staple. I know of these, what are some others?

Clone an existing button only:

  • 8BitDo Pro 2 (P1, P2)
  • PS4/PS5 controller with remap kit from ExtremeRate (K1, K2, K3, K4)

Treated by Steam as an entirely new button:

  • Steam Controller (L4, R4)
  • Paired joy-cons (left SL, SR; right SL, SR)
  • Steam Deck (L4, L5, R4, R5)
  • Xbox Elite (P1, P2, P3, P4)
  • Dualsense Edge (LB, RB)

I use a modded PS5 controller on PC. I’ve found for most purposes, clone-binding R4 to Cross/A and L4 to Square/X is good enough, as that allows me to crouch and jump while also running and turning with the thumbsticks. But it’d be really cool if I could remap these buttons steam-side, instead of needing to clone an existing button controller-side.

  • Scrubbles@poptalk.scrubbles.tech
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    1 year ago

    The Razer Wolverine is by far the best controller I’ve ever purchased. Got it now… 7 years ago and it’s still just an absolute champ. The initial price may scare off some, and the fact that it’s wired, but it’s the best damn controller I’ve ever used.

    Flappers are 2 can be mapped to existing buttons (I have mine as up/down on the D-pad), and the other 2 raise/lower sensitivity of the sticks. So I can hold a flapper while sniping to get real precise.

    It also has two little toggles on the inside between the bumpers which I have mapped to left/right on the dpad, which is really nice because I don’t have to take my fingers off the sticks, Witcher 3 this is amazing because what’s how you pull out a specific sword.

    Cannot recommend more, Razer Wolverine.

  • FilthyHands@sh.itjust.works
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    1 year ago

    The Xbox Elite V2 was one of the worst purchases I ever made. Left stick drift and a sticky LB about 60 days after purchase, when the warranty was for only 30 days. They just recently started selling replacement parts but I feel it’s too little, too late.

    • Rhynoplaz@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      I used to get drift on EVERY Xbox controller in less than a year. The kids got older and started dropping them on the floor less, and lo and behold, my controllers last years without any drift. 🤷🏻‍♂️

      • FilthyHands@sh.itjust.works
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        1 year ago

        I kept mine in the case when not in use 😪 I have original ps2/3 controllers that still hold center. The sticks feel terrible, but they work.

    • A Purpl Panther@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      Same issue, at one point I had two of and cycling warranty replacements on both (they bumped it up to 1 year).

      I recently got the white version which doesn’t come with the additional accessories (I had a ton already from all the warranty replacements). It’s been holding up a lot better than my older black Elite 2s.

  • all-knight-party@kbin.cafe
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    1 year ago

    Tons of third party controllers for any system clone existing buttons, which is nice when the official controllers don’t have that. Something interesting about doing this on a switch is that because each joy con is its own independent controller you can only map each joy con to an input from the same joy con, for example, the left wouldn’t be able to map to face buttons, and the right wouldn’t be able to map to the d pad.

    I use a Steam Controller on PC and really enjoy being able to map anything to it which helps being able to play games how I want. Cloning buttons is great for the whole “retain joystick movement while hitting a face button”, but without being able to directly map different game controls to it it’s just a copy of an existing function you already have.

    I would love for grip buttons to be normalized and allow for more controls in games, it’s pretty much the last part of my hands that aren’t doing anything on a modern controller layout.

  • forked_bytes@lemm.ee
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    1 year ago

    The GameSir T4k has them but I think they can only be mapped to existing buttons. I map them to left/right stick press.
    Very nice affordable controller with hall effect analog sticks.

  • skirtalowda@lemm.ee
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    1 year ago

    I have a SCUF Reflex FPS for the games that don’t need the adaptive trigger feature, and the regular one for the ones that do. They are expensive af, but I have joint hypermobility and the FPS version is the one that my hands hurt the least with, and it’s the one I most heavily use. The paddle shape and position fits my hand and it’s super lightweight.

    SCUF has a reputation for poor quality control, but my FPS lived through the poorest treatment for a year, until the left trigger finally died. They don’t have a large warranty, but they repaired my controller without coverage for ~50€, and threw in a case (it’s included now, but wasn’t when I bought it) and thumbstick replacements when they sent it back.

  • Puzzle_Sluts_4Ever@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    I use the 8bitdo

    In theory, having a whole new button would be nice. But understand that games are specifically designed around the 18+1 button setup and there is rarely a need for a 19th and a 20th. And if I am going full steam craziness: I tend to prefer modal mappings at that point anyway.

    I could see something like a flight sim or an elite game benefiting from ALL THE BUTTONS but… at that point I want the HOTAS form factor. Or we are talking something like the x series where everyone knows the game is meant to be m+kb but we still try to make it work.

    • SandLight@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      That said, I have my 8bitdo grips rebound to be stick buttons, and I have the stick buttons removed.

      Even if I don’t get more options, I still get better options.

  • Nelots@lemm.ee
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    1 year ago

    I remember having a tough time choosing between the Wolverine v2 and the Victrix Gambit a while back when I needed a controller. I eventually went with the Gambit and I haven’t regretted it. It has two swappable paddle pieces so you can choose between having either two paddles or four.