It might just be the specific spool/brand of PETG you used. Try buying some from a major well-known manufacturer, like Overture, Polymaker, etc. I’ve had cheaper brands shrink, warp, have adhesion issues, and all sorts of other quirks.

Make sure it’s from one of Sunlu’s official stores… aliexpressis pretty shady lol.

Nope, this is the same size as the stock Prusa sheets. The sheets are all a little bigger than the actual build area.

This is just a regular-sized Prusa MK4, 250 x 210mm xy build area. I made this custom magnetic G10 sheet for printing PETG, it’s 253.8 x 241mm.

You could also mess with your retraction settings to try and reduce stringing.

I had one weird roll of PETG that could only be printed at lower temperatures, so it’s possible. Still looks like the filament is wet to me… I recommend picking up a Sunlu S1 Plus when it drops under $40, I like being able to both dry the spool and print straight from the dryer (only takes a couple hours to re-absorb moisture).

Ended up moving the little 500VA UPS from my computer to the 3D printer. Hopefully it’ll help for brief blips.

This model was set up for it already in the .3mf file. It stops, moves the toolhead over, automatically unloads the filament, and waits for me to yank it the rest of the way out then stick in another color. It then purges the nozzle a bit to get the main color fully flowing and asks you if it’s correct before proceeding. I did this like 7 times for this stupid half-failed box lol.

Edit: Also, you can left-click the plus sign on the layer slider at any height you want after slicing in PrusaSlicer to add manual color changes in.

This could be it, OP should check what the actual temperature says on the screen during printing.

Aside from drying, here are some thoughts:

Double-check the print temperature, PETG should be about 240-ish. Also the spiral vase mode may be the issue if your model isn’t designed for it. Also check your z offset, the first layer should be almost a flawless sheet… if not, stop the print and try again while live adjusting the z until it’s correct. Typically PETG doesn’t like to be squished down as much as PLA.

I printed the panels using the full width of my large 300x300mm print bed. I have three of them mounted to the wall. There are several sizes available though, you can always merge more smaller ones.

It’s actually just a shorter version of the tall basket model that was available. I originally meant for it to hold my alcohol bottle, but it was too small… then I discovered it fits the canned air perfectly.

Don’t question my methods lol

The hexagon panels have a larger recess in the back, so parts snap in securely.

Surprisingly so. It’s very difficult to remove the holders, and I print everything in PETG for added toughness.

This is their thicker (and more expensive) enclosure, I haven’t noticed any issues. The back end of the dryer is right over the corner joint to hopefully add strength.

One thing to check on the factory models is the belt centering on the pulleys. Both my X and Y belts weren’t centered correctly despite following the directions flawlessly, had to shim the motor mounts and also the printed Y motor holder where it mounts to the frame. Seems to be a common issue.

It’s significantly faster, the higher motor resolution reduces vertical fine artifacts, and the nextruder reduces texture that could otherwise be caused by bad drive gears.

Tukkari support told me directly to do this. It barely gets warm under the dryer, so there’s no real risk of it damaging the plexiglass.

Case is great, I like not having to mess with moving the power supply or display. It’s designed around having the PSU inside the enclosure, with dedicated air ducting to the PSU vents. It is a little noisy with the printer vibrating the melamine base like a drum on top of the enclosure’s plastic feet… I’ll suspend it on foam and/or a paver someday. It also removed the hot plastic smell from the room entirely (I’m sensitive to it).