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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 17th, 2023

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  • Milk Shakes at just about any fast food restaurants. The machines always seem to be down! Pulled up to an Arby’s a few months back to order a Jamoca shake and they said their machine was down. I asked them if I had pulled into the McDonald’s drive through by mistake. We all had a big laugh… but that was months ago and they have now put a sticker on the menu that says their shakes are not currently available :(

    Went to a Baskin Robins to order a Chocolate Milk shake and they were out of Chocolate ice cream… on multiple occasions. At least they don’t have a machine to break down!





  • Thanks for the response. The barrier I choose isn’t permeable. I live in a moderate climate. We do get the occasional snow which melts within a few days. My house is pretty leaky at the moment, so the walls will be able to dry from the inside. I would like to use mineral wool in some areas (like near my grill) but it isn’t available in large sheets in my area and its R value per inch isn’t quite as good as the Poly, so I opted to go with Poly in most areas.

    Yes, I could place the L flashing behind the furring strips (mentioned in my previous reply), but my hesitation there is I wanted to have a full shield of layered tape and wrap all the way up the wall and I didn’t really want to put wrap on top of the insulation because I didn’t trust that none of the penetrations I would need to make for the furring strips and siding wouldn’t leak. I saw in one video where they were doing 4" of insulation they put the rain barrier 2" back between the two insulation layers. I think this would be a good solution but the install is a bit more complicated when doing multiple layers of insulation. To do this I could have done two 1" layers instead of just 1 2" layer and put the flashing between the two layers.



  • On further research it seems that in this case I could have brought the polystyrene all the way down to the roof deck and flashed it with the shingles (cutting them back 2") to make the front of the polystyrene the rain barrier. Assuming I could do a good enough job to guarantee no water penetrated behind it. This would prevent the need for the 2"x1.5" board all together and the gap all the way to the sheathing which would be a big source for thermal bridging and transfer. Not sure I am confident enough to take this approach though and the flashing has already been installed by the roofer.

    So my question remains, how big should the gap be above the shingles.



  • I have to confirm that mastic plus aluminum tape is the way to go. The mastic will help fill the gap and protect the tape from drying out and peeling away. Be sure to clean it thoroughly so the tape will stick long term. Be generous with the tape as over time it may begin to fail. Mastic is doubly important if you have condensation issues. And if that is the case, or the duct work is in unconditioned space, you should consider insulating and covering the duct work.