Yes, it’s recommended to replace the SP4 screen with an SP5 screen - so you can rest easy

Glad yours is usable still! Mine went from fine to unusably flickering within the span of a week, so it set in fast. I babybabied it too hoping to avoid the issue - I guess I just prolonged it till it microsoft wouldn’t fix it anymore. rip fuck this corpo created e waste shit (I use it as a comp strapped to my TV now)

Ditch it, the Surface Pro 4’s are cursed via shit manufacturing.

Its screen will fail sooner or later https://flickergate.com/ . I had one, it started flickering after the “extended” warranty. The display is useless now. Nothing fixes it. At first the flicker stopped if something on the screen moved, so I used this https://github.com/Acie1998/Surface-Pro-Screen-Flicker-Solver to mitigate it. But within a day or two it was worse. I tried a reduced refresh rate, but that did not help by then. It quickly got worse when in use, within minutes after a week of the flickering starting. A used one is just pre-accelerated to its demise.

Replacing the screen - even opening the device - is egregiously dangerous because the screen often cracks when taking it apart. Microsoft abs sucks for making a device that can’t last when it clearly should. (Not to say anything about your specific problems! It sounds like the battery needs to be replaced, but it can run without a battery as far as I know so not sure why it can’t power up with it heavily depleted)

Edit: if you’re going to remove the sceeen, replace the battery and replace the screen with a surface pro 5 screen. They sell them. The batteries get fucked quick cause the heat sink cooks them, so it’s prob the battery causing your problems (mine had shit battery life at its end too)

Here is a blurb from Reddit describing what to get (ifixit apparently sells a surface pro 5 screen as well if you want one degree better than direct China): My advice, if you have a Surface Pro 4 with an Samsung Panel is to replace for an LG Screen from Surface Pro 5/6. You need to buy this LCD cable too for that conversion: M1010537-003

You can check in the device manager which LCD panel you have on your Surface

I did a wireshark packet capture and found the wake-up packet is on UDP 987. I can only capture broadcasts, not specific stuff it looks like. Source: 10.0.69.69(iOS device IP) Destination: 10.0.69.255 Protocol: UDP Length: 105 Info 57477(or 62764, 62335, 60311 as source ports) -> 987 Len=63

Note the IP of the PS4 is 10.0.69.150

I’m not sure what to do with this, though. Nothing I tried worked (e.g., jamming 987 into the IP tables iptables -A FORWARD -i %i -j ACCEPT; iptables -A FORWARD -o %i -j ACCEPT; iptables -t nat -A PREROUTING -p udp --dport 987 -j DNAT --to-destination 10.0.69.150:987; iptables -t nat -A POSTROUTING -o eth0 -j MASQUERADE; iptables -t nat -A POSTROUTING -p udp -d 10.0.69.150 --dport 987 -j SNAT --to-source 10.0.66.10:987 based on https://serverfault.com/questions/586486/how-to-do-the-port-forwarding-from-one-ip-to-another-ip-in-same-network).

Additionally setting the Wireguard mask to 10.0.66.1/16 makes the WG connection not route successfully, and setting the mask in OpnsenseRouter->Interfaces->[LAN]->(under Static IPv4 configuration section) to 16 did nothing. Oh well, this seems beyond me

Setting the WG [Interface] range to 10.0.66.0/16, along with the [Peer] to 10.0.66.10/16, and the Opnsense DHCP range in Interfaces->LAN to /16 made no connection to the internet or local occur.

This feels like banging rocks together hoping for fire - not for me (but maybe reading stuff for a bit will help, maybe)

Who knows indeed, I’m beginning to suspect that it was able to connect via the internet (and that stopped working) and I just never noticed so the VPN was a superfluous extra step.

But I did try in the [Peer] definition setting the allowed IPs to: 10.0.66.10/16 instead of 10.0.66.10/32, which should expand the allowed range to 10.0.69.XXX. Alas, that did not work.

Edit: Also tried assigning the [Peer] to an unused IP in the 10.0.69.XXX range directly, but that made nothing work so not the way either.

I don’t see any - but I guess it makes sense, the Opnsense computer isn’t involved by design in local network activity. The Opnsense comp goes to a switch that all other LAN also connect to, and I assume the switch routes so the Opnsense comp connection doesn’t get bottlenecked. I indeed forgot that’s how it worked till now - thanks for the suggestion, helped me internalize a bit more infrastructure at least!

Where would I set the subnet mask?

I do not understand how to apply most networking concepts effectively - I only run Opnsense to get a router that has actual software updates, not because I now how to use it (no experience with networking otherwise).

In WireGuard I specify the 10.0.66.XX subnet directly without DHCP. In Opnsense, I’m not sure where to look and searching for it didn’t help illuminate anything obvious.

You gonna kick the tankies out of 196? Cause I can barely guzzle with fascists denying Holodomor here (guzzlin’ glizzies in memory of those who can’t)