+1 for Voron. I just finished up mine and am pleased with the results. Totally open source, modifiable, and unlike Prusa machines not based on a 5-year old design. (This is coming from somebody who loves the MK3S+ but was very disappointed with the MK4’s marginal improvement and botch-job of a lunch)

That is an incredibly overgeneralized view of the situation. It’s precisely this kind of polarization, and viewing everything in terms of black and white, that Putin and allies are reveling in.

Of course! link

Yup, totally. Klicky as a concept is great, but the original design was just bad. The Klicky parts I had were from a PIF provider, so I’m confident it wasn’t a bad print job. Maybe Klicky NG fixes the issue, but to me the PCB is worth it.

Thanks!

I have to do a fine babystep here and there, but nothing major. I think it’s mostly because I haven’t done an actual offset calibration since changing to Klicky PCB, just kind of eyeballed it with a piece of paper.

Do you have the calibrate_z macro?

Edit: Moonraker says I’ve got 130 hours on it already. More than I thought!

Nice! I’m looking for a label maker for a similar setup. What do you recommend?

If you have a hardened nozzle and brass brush, it shouldn’t be too abrasive. I’ve usually done that with my MK3S+ and never had issues.

On the cable, have you considered hot glue?

I have not, what a marvelous idea! Thanks!

With regard to Klicky, yup, I can get it to go through the whole QGL/bed mesh/Z-calibration process and get off a print I’d estimate about 50% of the time. It’s mostly just consistency. I can probably increase the tolerances in printer.cfg, but I figure the defaults are what they are for a reason. I had trouble with assembling Klicky due to tolerances of the printed parts, and some of my magnets weren’t perfectly flush. I suspect (hope) this is causing some wobbles in the probe itself.

Two different problems. First with y endstop, and not really an issue with the endstop, more the cables. They keep wiggling out of the nook you’re supposed to stuff them into, and that causes them to get pinched when homing. The cable is just thick enough that it prevents the endstop from triggering.

The other is Klicky, I get wildly different readings to the point where it just gives up because the tolerance was exceeded too many times. I’ve checked for loose screws, belt tension, etc., can’t find anything obvious. I’ve basically given up on Klicky and ordered a Klicky PCB kit, hopefully that will fix it.

That’s my guess with the 3kg, too. Probably need a holder with bearings. I plan on printing this holder (https://www.printables.com/model/513779-voron-horizontal-filament-spool-holder-w-608-beari) because I need something a little more forward based, I’ll let you know how it goes.

Thanks!

Yup, still much to do on mine too. Bed clips, skirts, fans, led mounts, camera mounts… It’s fun to tinker some, but I’ll be glad when it’s all calibrated and ready to print reliably. I’ve got some issues here and there with endstops I need to figure out.

It’s a Voron 2.4r2! Bed size is 350mm square. I built it from the LDO motors kit. You can find them lots of places. Here’s a link to LDO resellers (https://docs.ldomotors.com/voron/LDO_Voron_Distributors). There are other kit options, too, including West3D and Fysetc.

Nice! Too bad they don’t make transparent cardboard 😂

Thanks! I agree, the wiring actually seems like one of the easiest things.

Yup! Posted a pic about a week ago. I wanted to post an updated pic of my progress but lemmy.world is choking on image uploads for me right now.

Good to know. I got the Klicky parts through PIF, so I’ll add it to the list!

multiple toolheads

Nope, although I think I read that there is such a mod for the Trident, but that’s because it has a fixed gantry. 2.4 is “flying” so I doubt that’s possible

enclosing it

I waffle back and forth there. I want to use ABS/ASA, but I have a ton of PLA to use up and I’ve read that doesn’t do so well in an enclosure. At least there are printable clips to help quickly remove the panels

runout sensors

There are a few, but the reviews on YouTube I’ve seen made them out to be kind of meh. I’m considering building the Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder once I’m up and running and tuned. That’s an MMU that has a dual filament sensor. You may be able to look at what they’re using at the hotend side and adapt it.

load cell sensors

For bed leveling? I’ve not seen that anywhere. There are a few similar mods, e.g. Klicky and Tap. The LDO kit I got has the Klicky parts, so I’ll go with that eventually.

Biggest thing to remember is take your time. I built my MK3s in a weekend, this definitely is not that. I view this as a much longer endeavor and investment that’s better than everything on the market right now. Better than Bambu and the like because it’s open source. Better than Prusa because the MK4 was really just a 5-year old printer with a new paint job and the XL is way out of my price range. Overall, this will be my printer, and once finished I’ll have customized every single thing to my liking.

This is the first week I’ve been working on it, I’d estimate maybe 10 hours so far, most of it last Sunday.

Subbed!

Are you aware of anything like this for text messages? Google messages filters a lot, but a) it’s not perfect, and b) it’s app specific

I’m running Immich on an Odroid N2 and it’s great! https://immich.app/

Wow, cool! Did you design the electronics as well?