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Joined 9 months ago
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Cake day: September 27th, 2023

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  • You don’t need to change kernel if the one you have works fine.

    For gaming PCs you’re often running hardware that gets improved in the kernel often. For servers, as long as you’re not trying to squeeze every once of performance out of it you can get by with way behind bleeding edge kernels.

    One of the easiest attack vectors to secure on a kernel is compiling all your modules directly into the kernel and disabling loadable kernel modules.

    Once you’ve got a kernel that has all the bells and whistles you need compiled into it, it’s relatively mature enough to have it’s bugs worked out (like an LTS kernel that’s been out for a month or so), and you’ve applied proper system and kernel hardening configs, that server can run undisturbed for quite a while.







  • There’s the primary maintained software repository, then there’s the AUR. I think most of the times people’s systems break because as inexperienced users they find a specific piece of software a site told them to install and its only available in the AUR, instead of finding something properly maintained that already exists to do the same thing. Over time you end up with a mess of a system relying on user maintained build files.

    I learned a lot in my first year of Arch (probably my 15th+ year of Linux though and I was not afraid of the command line) so I decided to reinstall my system after that first year and one of the choices I made was to not use AUR packages (except in very specific cases). I also changed bootloader’s and a few other things.

    I’ve had mine break twice I think. The first time was because I didn’t know the general rule was “if you’re doing an update, update everything”. I saw an updated GPU driver was released so I installed it, but didn’t bother with anything else. Turns out you’re supposed to update the graphics drivers and kernel at the same time, so i wasn’t getting output after booting the kernel. The beauty of Arch though is that when you learn to install it, you also learn how to fix it. Booted off the USB installer stick, mounted my root partition, chrooted to it, then ran a system update. I was back booted up, logged in, and gaming in less than 10 minutes from discovering the problem.

    In general, I would say people’s systems getting bricked “all the time” is a bit hyperbolic.



  • The issue with running a PSU exactly at, or very close to, the sustained draw of your system is that it won’t be able to withstand sudden GPU/CPU spikes, that can go way beyond what the PSU is rated for, am I wrong?

    The TPD of the components is their max rated draw. They will not exceed that draw. Any spikes under normal operation (aka gaming) are spikes up to that max rated number, not over. If you calculate your component’s max power draw correctly you will never exceed your PSU’s max draw.

    At max load a 550W 80+ gold PSU (the one I have) will have 89% efficiency and provide 490W

    No. A power supply’s posted wattage is what it is rated to output. That is the max draw it will supply to the internal PC components. The efficiency rating is what tells you how much AC wattage from the wall is required to generate that 550 watts of DC power for the PC components.

    A 550W PSU with 85% efficiency will require 647 watts of AC power from the wall to provide that 550W of output. A 90% efficient PSU will require 611 watts from the wall to do the same.

    Additionally, PSUs function on curves based on draw. Here’s Corsair’s graph from their Choosing a Power supply page: https://res.cloudinary.com/corsair-pwa/image/upload/f_auto,q_auto/v1665096094/akamai/landing/PSU-Family-Page/diagrams/80Plus_Chart.jpg

    Corsair (and most other PSU manufacturers) build their PSUs to maximize efficiency around the 50% load mark, which for a 550W PSU is 275W. However, pay attention to the Y axis of the chart. A Gold PSU is at 90% efficient at 50% load, but it’s still 87% efficient at 80% load.

    NVME and SSD drives pull 5W max. Fans are usually in the 2W range but running full speed are in the ~5W range.

    Figure out your load requirements and know, don’t guess.


    A 5800x3d means you’ll need a bigger PSU, but if you get a bigger PSU, you won’t have enough to get a better GPU, so you won’t need the 5800x3d. If you’re really really insistent on getting something better than the 5600, wait for the 5600x3d. It should be ~$100 cheaper than the 5800x3d which will cover the cost of the PSU and is still a 105w TPD chip. The 5800 is overkill if you don’t have the video card and components needed for it, and 4k gaming is actually slightly less intensive on CPUs compared to 1440p.


    The short version of every question about upgrading is that the CPU isn’t going to be what gets you to 120FPS. The GPU is. $100 extra dollars in the CPU is going to give you a couple more FPS. $100 more into the GPU is going to give you 10-20 more FPS.

    Personal anecdote: I have a 5800x3d. The performance change when I upgraded from a 5600 was single digit FPS at best for the games I play. It was measurably different, but not perceptibly different. I’d have better performance putting that same money into a better GPU


    Which country are you in? Finding a used 5600 should be really easy and cheap.



  • The expansion of the universe is measured at 70km per second per megaparsec (~3 million light years).

    So if you take 2 things that started say ~3 billion light years apart (which would be ~1000x a megaparsec), that means every single second the universe has existed those 2 points have gotten 70,000km further apart. And now that they’re further apart, they separate even faster the next second.

    For reference:

    • 31.5 million seconds in a year. ( 3.15 x 10^7 )
    • universe is 13.8 billion years old ( 1.38 x 10^10 )

    So we talking about this 70,000km getting added between the 2 points ~4 x 10^17 times.

    Then you gotta bring calculus into it to factor in the changing distance over time.

    It … adds up. Which is why you’ll see the estimates for the observable universe’s radius being ~46.5 billion light years (93 billion light year diameter), even though the universe had only existed for ~14 billion years.



  • If you’re moderately comfortable with the command line, Arch is amazing. I find it considerably easier to find software I want to install, and find answers to problems I have.

    I would say that if you’re not interested in learning when something goes wrong, so you’re not really interested in anything other than i don't care I just want it to work then it’s not the distro for you.

    The rolling release style is really great and Arch is rock solid, so if you are looking for something a little more user friendly, Endeavor is worth a try as it is Arch based but focused on an easier to use system.

    I installed Arch for the first time in March of last year for my primary gaming PC. Previously my gaming PCs were windows but I keep a separate file server and HTPC each running Ubuntu. I’m in the process of switching both of them over to Arch now because I just consider package management and updates so much easier.


  • A 5600 is $250 less than a 5800x3d, and is 65 watts instead of 100. You’ll not come anywhere near justifying a $350 processor unless you’re spending $1000 on the video card as well.

    Get yourself a used 5600 for under $100 since everyone is upgrading to a 5800x3d. Then buy yourself whatever GPU you’re comfortable getting with your remaining budget. 6700, 7700, and 7800 are all good, with the 7700 probably being the most future proof per dollar, and 6700 being the most FPS per dollar. The 7800 is in a weird spot. I think it’s probably just there to convince people to get the 7900.

    And don’t forget to update the bios before putting the new CPU in :)

    Your PSU should be fine. It is rated at up to it’s listed draw. If you wanna be safe, aim for 10% lower. I have a 7900xt + 5800x3d with 2 NVME drives and an AIO. With a kill-a-watt in the wall while gaming, I measure 430 watts going to the power strip for the PC plus 2 monitors (which pull 50 on their own with the tower off). Online power calculators are extra conservative. Your PSU could run my rig.

    I also have a good Freesync monitor, and I quite honestly can’t tell the difference between 90fps and 144fps. If you’re getting 80+FPS consistently, let Freesync take care of the rest and don’t worry about it.