• 20 Posts
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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 16th, 2023

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  • I recommend that if you go with a home carbonation system, that you look for one you hack your own CO2 refills for.

    Some people buy a CO2 tank and regulator, then hook it straight up to their machine. I have a large CO2 tank in the basement with an adapter to refill the individual proprietary canisters. I got the tank free from a friend, and then paid 30 USD to have it certified (good for 10 years) and 30 USD to have it recharged with beverege-grade CO2. Buying an adapter was 40 USD

    My large tank holds ~5kg of CO2, and it costs about 17 USD to officially refill one of the small canisters with 500g of CO2. Thus, even if I didn’t get the tank for free (new ones cost ~120 USD), the large tank would still pay for itself after filling it one time.




  • You’ve laid out one potential development cycle: FOSS from the get-go, and open collaboration welcome.

    However, that’s not the only way that a FOSS game might be developed. The code could be freely licensed, but the upstream developers refuse to accept outside patches. In that case, there’s one “original” and then if you don’t like it, build your fork.

    Alternatively, a game could be developed entirely in-house under proprietary licenses, and then only made FOSS upon commercial release. Contributor patches could improve the project, but conception of the game would be entirely the domain of its original developers.



  • How about writing a script to automate the deletion, thus minimizing the chance of human error being a factor? It could include checks like “Is this a folder with .git contents? Am I being invoked from /home/username/my_dev_workspace?”

    In a real aviation design scenario, they want to minimize the bullshit tasks that take up cognitive load on a pilot so they can focus on actually flying. Your ejector seat example would probably be replaced with an automatic ejection system that’s managed by the flight computer.


  • My plan was to use asymmetric encryption where the secret key is again encrypted using something like AES

    I think your terminology is off. AES is an example of symmetric encryption: Decryption requires the same key as encryption.

    An example of asymmetric encryption would be public-key cryptography: You encrypt a message with the public key, but only a private key can decrypt the result.

    AES should be fine for encrypting large blocks of data.

    I believe that for systems like TLS, asymmetric encryption is only used briefly to negotiate a symmetric key between client and server.


  • Yes, it’s the ratio of how much of the power that you transmit is reflected back towards your rig due to impedence mismatch of antenna <-> radio.

    Ideally you want SWR < 2, but for simple voice modes at QRP power, it’s not the end of the world if you end up in the 2-3 range. However digital modes need a good SWR because they transmit at 100% duty cycle. If I don’t get SWR < 2 for my IC-705 during a digital transmit, the reflected power causes my computer’s USB port to reset. At higher powers it could damage my rig or my computer, so it’s definitely a thing to avoid.


    1. Hard to recommend, because it will depend on preferences. I went with a QRP Icom IC-705 because I knew I wanted to go hiking and do POTA with it. I will say that 10W can feel very limiting, and it can be tough to make the same contacts that others can easily hit. If down the line you want a stronger transmitter, you’d need to get an amplifier. The overall cost of QRP rig + amp might be more than a “base station” type model with higher xmit power out of the box. Again it all depends on your preferences. At the very least, I’d recommend something with good voice and digital mode performance. Plugging right into WSJT-X or JS8Call for digital is super fun, and I like it a lot more than talking to folks.

    2. Never done a build project for xceiver, so I couldn’t say. All those 10W systems can always be amplified for more output.

    3. That’s called a random wire antenna. It’s what I currently use when taking my rig out on the go. It consists of an antenna line and a counterpoise joined by a 9:1 unun (not balun). Keep it away from other metal parts like roof gutters or fences. The wire length isn’t actually “random”, but you can find tables online where people test for a length that gets ok SWR on several bands. You will still need an impedence matcher (aka “antenna tuner”) to actually get a usable SWR.