Did you end up trying something?

The best I have is to be careful to minimize dependencies, and minimize when I change the number of faces an object has, but of course that’s unavoidable sometimes. I don’t buy it that all CAD tools have the same problem or that this is how real professional CAD designers would work, though.

To minimize dependencies for example, instead of drawing the sketch for pad 2 directly on a face of pad 1, I might draw it on the base plane and transform the sketch to line up with pad 1’s face. The main consequence is that I need to manually move pad 2’s sketch if I change the size/position of pad 1. It’s a tradeoff, because I’m giving up some of the benefits of parametric CAD in exchange for easier fix-up.

I agree, mapping a datum plane to a face should have the same topo naming issue as just drawing on the face, so I don’t know why the guide would suggest that. The comment below about mapping datum planes to a simplified skeleton is interesting though.

The good news is that the next release (which sounds imminent) apparently improves it quite a bit.

I don’t think I’d really view it as a typical first gen product; Kralyn has been working on it for quite a while and first showed it off 3 years ago. I saw a demo of LDO’s V3.2 at a RepRap Festival and it looks pretty solid.

I haven’t watched the videos in quite a while but I’m sure there are demos of bed leveling, which would be my only real concern with unpacking and repacking it frequently.

That said, since I haven’t owned one myself I can’t say “you should buy this!!1!”. Do you have the budget and time to start with another less-portable model at home to confirm you’re really into printing enough to spend the money on a positron? You don’t need a ton of space to store a Prusa MK4 when it’s not in use, and the robust frame plus fantastic bed probing mean there’s no calibration required after moving it.

If you think about bed adhesion, the forces on a light plastic part from gravity are negligible. Think of how much force it takes to pop a finished part off the bed compared to the weight of the part. When you have adhesion problems, I’m sure the plastic shrinkage is causing pretty large forces (or on a tall part the nozzle bumps the top of the print and has a long lever arm to pry the part off the build surface).

I was expecting Hal

Those are resin prints, not FDM prints. The print technology (FDM vs resin) is the bigger factor than the actual plastic used (PLA vs others).

And that level of detail is impossible with FDM regardless of the plastic used.

“ERRF” was terrible to say out loud, and as hell weaver said above, even many people interested in 3d printing won’t know what RepRap is.

Are the test models ones that come with the printer, or models you’ve found online? If they’re from online, does the printer ship with any you could try? Something sliced by the manufacturer is most likely to work. If those fail, I’d contact customer support.

I have no experience with resin, but is the resin coin stuck to the screen or the build plate? Are you angling the chess piece or trying to print it straight / vertical? My understanding is that resin prints need to be carefully aligned so they’ll peel of the screen, and big flat surfaces like the bottom of a chess piece won’t.

Any particular technique for the dipping?

Check out paragraph 81 of the indictment. One of his co-conspirators was having a discussion with a lawyer; the lawyer said staying in office past January 20 would trigger “riots in every major city in the United States, and the co-conspirator replied, “Well, [lawyer], that’s why there’s an Insurrection Act”.

What is this list sorted by?

Are you using leaded or lead-free solder? If it’s lead-free, it has to be hotter and you may also find extra flux helps.

This was more interesting than I expected. Though they didn’t clarify why it costs $700,000, given the context I assume it’s customers on slower devices/connectivity leaving rather than something like bandwidth?

In Thomas Salanderer’s latest video his sponsor sells something that claims to fit your needs. I’d never heard of it and have no experience.

I think MPX (Magic Studios / Magic Phoenix) will be offering one very soon, and their other kits are supposed to be pretty good. They’re including canbus for fewer wires, and Tap.

Do you need a full cube, or is the standard 250mm Z adequate and you just need the extra X and Y?