Sorry I just realized the way I described everything was actually pretty confusing. After every print I run a clean macro that moves the nozzle up front and heats to 230 and sits there. After about 10 minutes I wipe it then have a clean complete macro to cool down and move it back to the center. Then I start a print and the homing etc is all done at a lower temp, I can’t remember if it’s static or nozzle temp -75c or something
To keep the squish consistent. I assumed it was because the nozzle is expanding more at higher temps but it could just expansion differences in the material or something else I guess. My start up script is homing at nozzle temp - 75c or something like that, most people with a brush just do the home at temp so there is no change. And yeah I forget about it sometimes too 😂
I’m not brave enough for the brush, I’ve considered trying out a toothbrush but my current process is just let the nozzle sit at temp for 15 minutes between prints and then wipe with a paper towel. I don’t z home at full temp, I have different offsets for the temps I do pla and abs at
For what it is worth I’ve been trying to get a warranty replacement from WD for almost 3 months now. They sent me the wrong drive and have been dragging their feet on getting me the correct one, will never purchase anything WD again
I’ve had under extrusion, caused by too high speed or pressure advance settings look like this, does it show up if you slow down?
I had similar problems on my sidewinder x1 that had two lead screws, honestly I would recommend skipping the v rollers completely and go straight to something with linear rails or modding some on
I second every bit of this. My first printer was a sidewinder I upgraded like crazy and converter to klipper. Ended up just wishing I started with a corexy. Mine had a bit of a bend in the x gantry that took me forever to figure out and was not possible to compensate for. Went to a 300mm voron 2.4 afterward and have been super happy
I built one about a year ago and it’s been great. At that point they didn’t include a lot of the stuff they do now, so my SB/CW2, nevermore, chamber LEDs, etc. were sourced separately and I didn’t use most of what they provided for the hot end